Posted by Wild Bill Caldwell on January 11, 2009 at 14:39:20 from (67.33.110.139):
Here is the set up I used on the SA and SC engines, I can't say how good this one works, these were the first Farmall pullies I've pulled, these were very easy. I had some 1/2 scrap plate, I cut a slot to get behind the pully, dogged down the all thread pullin' the end peice against the PortaPower, pulley groaned a time or two tryin' to hold on and gave up. You will notice I used a 3/4" bolt between the end of the crank and the PortaPower ram. The 3/4" bolt is a good slip fit in the pully, Hole in the end of the crank is 1/2" N C threads, hole is recessed so it would be hard to damage the threads.
I understand there is some concern usein' bolts at the front of the engine to pull the pully back on because of the pressure on the crank and thrust bearin'...I intend to cut a 1/2 " plate that will fit the rear of the engine, blow holes that match the rear of the block holes, with a hole for the dial pin on the end of the crank, bolt this plate hard against the rear end of the crankshaft, this should not let the crank move rearward.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Kreem Brand Fuel Tank Liner - by Staff. This condition has occurred on a few machines that we have had and fortunately we were able to borrow the technique used at the local motorcycle shop. The product that we have used is called Kreem thouh there are others on the market, this one was recommended and available. This particular product is sold in three parts, a bottle of etch, dryer, and sealer. We were fortunate enough to start the process with stern warnings from those that had used this type of product before. The horror
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