Posted by Dave41A on November 17, 2014 at 18:13:19 from (71.234.213.214):
I did a search of the archives and it seems like ethanol fuel is causing some problems. I have had problems with it causing rust in both the fuel tank and carburetor of my '53 Ford NAA. The ideal solution is to be able to purchase ethanol-free gas, but this is not available in all states.
However, I work with a fuels chemist, who is working on the application of ethanol fuel in a marine environment. Based on his research, I have developed/stumbled across the following method for removing ethanol from gasoline, which I provide for the reference of anyone having similar problems and who does not otherwise have access to zero-ethanol gasoline. This is based on real science, and requires no "snake oil" or other mystery additives.
Be sure to follow all common sense fuels safety procedures when working with fuels. Smoking and static-discharge are real hazards. Work in a well-ventilated space. Comply with all laws regarding the use and disposal of fuels or by-products.
Required components: 5 gallons ethanol-blended gasoline 0.5 gallons water 5 gal Plastic fuel container w/ tight lid. 2 gal plastic fuel container Portable fuel tank (such as used for outboard motors--at least 5 gal capacity) Clear tubing and fuel petcock Support stand for portable tank (Table, workbench, etc.) OPTIONAL: water-based food coloring (green or blue is best)
Directions: If desired, mix a few drops food coloring with the water. Starting with the 5 gal of ethanol blended fuel in the 5 gal container w/ the lid, add the 0.5 gal of water to the fuel (you may have to pour off 0.5 gallons to make room for the water). The water will settle to the bottom. Install lid tightly.
SHAKE the fuel-water mix vigorously for about 30 minutes. Three 10 minute sessions with breaks in between is fine. The fuel needs to be *really* well-mixed.
TRANSFER the water-fuel mix to the outboard fuel tank. Get every last drop.
WAIT overnight while the fuel separates.
SIPHON the mixture from the outboard fuel tank through the clear tube fitted with the petcock. The support stand is helpful here (to keep the tank elevated). The first gallon or so of liquid will be the colored water-ethanol mix. This should go into the smaller, 2-gallon tank and will be readily visible in the clear tubing by its color. Eventually, the water-fuel interface will be reached, and a water-fuel mixture will start flowing. Finally, straight gasoline (no water) will begin flowing. Use the petcock to shut off the flow, and transfer the hose to the 5-gallon container. Allow the siphon to complete, draining all the remaining fuel into the 5-gallon container.
The 5-gallon container now hold approximately 4.5 gallons of ethanol-free fuel, and the 2-gallon container will hold about 0.9 gallons of ethanol-water mix and a little bit of gasoline that was unavoidably siphoned with it.
Actual test results: Start: 9% Ethanol gasoline, 1710 ppm water (0.17%) Finish: less than 1% ethanol*, 304 ppm water (0.03%)
*Dielectric fuel sensor to measure ethanol content cannot read below 1%. Digital titration results were used for the water ppm measurements (which results in higher accuracy).
The finished fuel is essentially 100% hydrocarbon, and is lower in water content than the "fresh" gas from the station.
How it works: Water and gas normally don't mix, but ethanol will mix with both and can keep all three together in a mixture--to a limit. Ethanol is also "hygroscopic": it absorbs water from the air. As the fuel sits in the tank, it absorbs water from the air through the vented fuel cap. The fuel in the carburetor also absorbs water through the air in the intake. Both of these processes are distinct from "condensation" issues associated with partially-full tanks.
Eventually the water content of the fuel becomes so great that the mixing tendencies of the ethanol are overcome, and the fuel rapidly (overnight) "phase separates." The layer of water/ethanol forms on the bottom, and this layer is highly corrosive to vintage fuel systems.
The above procedure essentially forces the process to occur in a controlled environment so the ethanol may be drawn off. The resulting fuel actually has a water content lower than that of "fresh" gas because the ethanol has been removed, and the fuel has lost its hygroscopic properties.
Note that the 4.5 gallons of gasoline will have a lower octane rating than when purchased as ethanol has an octane of 118 and boosts the octane of the fuel. This fuel (approximately 80 octane) should be fine in most vintage engines. Xylene or toluene can be added to restore the octane if desired (about 10% of volume--0.5 gallons for the 4.5 gallons of gas). Avoid commercial octane boosters as these are (surpise) mostly ethanol.
Also avoid the use of "ethanol treatment" with the fuel. Ethanol treatment is an emulsifant--it allows water and oil to mix. Keeping the fuel in hydrocarbon form allows any water that may be present in the fuel system to collect in the glass water-separation globe as it was designed to do. The emulsifant merely delays, but does not prevent, the phase-separation process, and actually helps the fuel dissolve more water then it otherwise would. It works for short-term applications but results in a larger water layer at the bottom of the fuel when (not if) it finally separates.
There are many readers who likely run their tractors every day and avoid ethanol phase-separation problems this way. However, this is not always possible. Also, once phase-separation begins, adding fresh ethanol-blended fuel can actually trigger more separation (as it introduces more ethanol to the system), so "topping off" a tank every day is not always helpful. Also be aware that, despite various legends, "premium" gas also contains ethanol, unless labelled otherwise.
All of these results were obtained using standard 87 octane commercially-available gasoline purchased in Connecticut in October and November (e.g. winter blend). Your local mix & quality of fuels may vary with location and time of year.
I hope you find this information helpful. If anything is unclear, please post any questions and I will gladly answer them.
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